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BUILDING FINCH CAGES AND FLIGHTS

by Jayne Yantz

(Copyright protected material used with permission)

 

First Published in BirdTalk Magazine - November 1995 

Question Submitted from Reader: I want to house several zebra finches in a large indoor enclosure (about 4 feet long by 2 feet wide by 4 feet tall). I cannot find a cage this big with bar spacing narrow enough for finches, and custom-made cages and aviaries are too expensive. Is it practical to build my own? How would I get started?

Many finch keepers build their own enclosures because homemade cages, flights and aviaries are quite economical. Homemade enclosures also can be designed exactly as you want them, and they can be created specifically to fit the space you have available. My own flights, which are all homemade, have been in service for several years. By building my own flights, I could afford larger enclosures than would otherwise have been possible. So, get out your hammer and nails --- homemade cages and flights are practical alternatives.

Start by getting ideas about designs and materials. To select a design, look at some pictures of homemade cages and aviaries. Many basic books on cage and aviary birds include drawings or photos of cages, flights and aviaries, so check your library, book shop and pet store. Since you have zebras, perhaps you might start with Hans-Jurgen Martin's Zebra Finches , which includes drawings of an easily constructed box cage and an indoor aviary that could fit in the corner of a living room. The New Finch Handbook by Matthew Vriends also has drawings of box cages and an indoor aviary that is decorated with plants and a fountain. Both books, published by Barron's give tips on construction and ideas for decorating the aviary with plants. If you want more technical information, check with Audubon Publishing (Dept. BT, One Glamore Ct., Smithtown, N.Y. 11787; 800-359-2473) or Avian Publication (Dept. BT, P.O. Box 120607, St. Paul, MN 55112; 800-577-2473) for titles on design and construction of cages, flights and aviaries.
Planning an indoor flight or aviary is not difficult; nevertheless, a little research helps avoid minor design flaws that could detract from the convenience or usefulness of the enclosure.

After selecting a design, decide on the materials you want to use. There are a variety of materials, but one of the most common choices is galvanized wire mesh. Sections of wire mesh can be cut and fastened together to form sturdy enclosures for small birds. Fairly plain wire mesh units can be decorated with plants to enhance their appearance, or colored mesh can be selected. For sources of wire mesh and hardware to construct wire mesh enclosures, check the ads in BIRDTALK or try Corners Limited (Dept. BT, 225 Parsons St., Kalamazoo, MI 49007; 800-456-6780).

For a more decorative aviary, consider attaching wire mesh to an attractive wooden frame. (Wire mesh can be attached easily to wood with a heavy-duty stapler.) The wood can be stained then polyurethaned to seal and protect the wood, and to allow effective cleaning and disinfecting of surfaces. If carefully finished, this type of enclosure can be an attractive piece of furniture. As an alternative, it is also possible to use screen doors or large screen windows, which can be fastened together to form an attractive indoor flight. (
If screen is used, birds' nails must be trimmed regularly. Long nails can become caught on the screen resulting in injuries to the birds. Screen is also tricky to clean: Rub simultaneously on both sides of the screen to remove droppings or other dirt.)

Wood and wire mesh or wood and wire bars (sold commercially as wire cage fronts) can also be used to build roomy box cages. A box cage has a wire front and solid walls. The walls, often made of plywood, receive a coating of light-colored paint, which makes the birds easy to see. The solid walls help small birds feel secure and protect the birds form drafts. A pull-out tray is usually included.

As you indicate, bar or wire spacing must be appropriate for small birds. Generally, I use one-half inch by two inch wire mesh, which leaves one-half inch spaces between wires that most small birds cannot get through. Commercial cage fronts with one-half spaces between the cage bars are also appropriate for most finches. However, if you plan to keep the tiniest finch species, such as gold-breasted waxbills or bronze mannikins, use slightly smaller spacing (such as one-half by one-half inch), which will prevent escapes and potential injuries resulting from birds getting caught between the bars. For breeding birds, the smaller spacing may also be appropriate because youngsters often fledge before they reach their parents' size.

A successful finch flight must be easy to use. The door should open out and be large enough for you to conveniently service the flight, yet small enough to prevent escape. Since birds fly up to escape danger, the door should be toward the bottom of the flight --- if the birds are disturbed when you service their enclosure, they will fly above while you work quietly below. This arrangement also generally makes birds feel less threatened by their caretaker's visits.

Also, select a convenient cage or flight bottom. For a cage or small flight, you can easily build a pull-out tray with a lip to keep the debris inside the enclosure. For large, walk-in flights or aviaries built to rest directly on the floor, a tray may not be needed if you have easy access for cleaning through a bottom door. For these enclosures, a piece of polyurethane plywood lined with a sheet of heavy plastic (such as thick plastic carpet runners) can act as and quickly changed once a day. Take care that excess water (from bathing birds) cannot reach your house floor below the flight.

If the enclosure is not built as a walk-in flight intended to rest on the floor, be sure to place it on a stand. Especially important for birds above the floor (where cold air falls and circulates) and allow birds to perch around their owners' eye level, which makes the birds feel secure.

Also, to improve your birds' well being, as well as to make them more visible and attractive, add full-spectrum fluorescent lights at the top of the enclosure. I place a light fixture directly on the roof of each flight; the light highlights my birds and makes their enclosures look more attractive, too. A few nontoxic plants also enhance appearance and provide cover needed to increase the birds' sense of security.

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